TR6 work log
|Task||Date Completed Sort descending||Notes|
|engine tune up||
new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, condenser, points, fan belt, new breather hoses, new vacuum line for brake booster
test and record cylinder compression, crank thrust bearing clearance
lower hose leaking, installed all new black hoses & clamp kit, new thermostat + gasket
Pedal drops to the floor, testing showed hydraulic failure. Rebuilt on both master & slave units, hydraulic flush & bleed. Installed all new hydraulics & hoses, used DOT 5 silicone fluid.
Clutch disc seems fine, just a little chatter, needs a firm foot.
|change oil & all filters||
Replaced air filter, installed spin-on oil filter kit
Uses Fram PH3600 filter
Crank showed excessive clearance.
Washer had dropped in to pan at some point. Installed .015 washer, slightly reduced to .013, had .004 clearance at installation. Some deformation on crank journal face, really needs a 360° bearing and cap in the future for better fix.
Check system for issues relating to old gas, fuel gauge is unreliable.
Cleaned and patched fuel tank, replaced fuel pump, new sending unit, flushed remaining fuel lines, new filter, cleaned carbs.
Doesn't latch in position, clean & grease. Both seats a little loose on the rails.
Cleaned and re-greased passenger rails, latch a little sloppy but holds fine
Left rear cylinder was frozen, overall evaluation.
Installed new right rear wheel cylinder, new rear adjusters, replaced all fluid with DOT5 silicone. Master cylinder rebuilt and new servo installed.
Valves adjusted, carbs cleaned up after stuck needle valve, rebalanced, timing adjusted by vacuum. Vacuum reading good, but a little bouncy, added seafoam to clean up potential valve buildup.
|Diff mount bushings||
It had a slight clunk when switching between forward and reverse.
Rear diff bushings replaced with poly, greatly reduced clunk from rear-end. Will replace front mounts when diff is dropped for other service.
|change gearbox and diff oil||
Old gearbox oil looked hazy and green. Diff oil just topped up.
|brake light switch||
Brake lights are always on. Bought a new switch, but cleaned and greased existing switch and it worked fine. Kept the new one as a spare.
|front suspension shimmy||
Bad shimmy at highway speed, upper control arm bushings totally shot, rattling over bumps.
Installed new upper control arm poly bushings, new ball joints, new front shocks with poly bushings. Other bushings purchased, not yet installed; knocks are much better, but still shimmies around 55-65.
|rattling door windows||
Original felt is shot, missing outer door seals
Relined the window channels with velcro, oiled mechanisms
Car pulling to one side, left caliper dragging
Rebuilt calipers, new pistons and seals, painted black, new hoses for installation. Pars from BP Northwest.
|Door waist seals||
To help with rattling windows, reduce rattling. Used new seals from TRF.
Hubs have play, internal condition unknown. Rebuilt by MN Triumphs member Larry Berg.
Rear tires rub the tube shocks with 2-people in the car. Check swingarm bushings, replace springs and find a replacement for the shocks; either original levers or new tube shock kit.
Installed new heavy duty springs, swing arm bushings, adjustable camber brackets, new shock mount kit and new tube shocks
Shimmy at highway speeds, metallic clunking over bumps, vague steering
New bushings, new front shocks and springs, tie rod ends, sway bar mounts. Lower a-arms done 9/2015, remaining front done 5/2016
replaced 4 u-joints in axles as part of rear suspension project
Pinion seal leaking. Mike replaced seal, cleaned out disgusting goo from diff, painted, new cover gasket
Headlights only work when high beams are on. Installed new headlight adjusters, high/low beams working after cleaning contacts in floor switch.
doors rattle even though latches adjusted tight, especially passenger side
installed new furflex seal (from TRF) around doors
|heater control switch||
Valve leaking coolant, replaced with upgraded Everco valve
Engine periodically hesitates when cruising at 3500 rpm or above. Fuel pump? Distributor? Coil? Vacuum lines? Try blowing out fuel line between tank and pump.
Carbs rebuilt by Mike winter of 2017, Bill rebuilt distributor. Idle and power much better.
|replace manifold gasket||
Popping/slapping sound on acceleration, testing showed leaks around cylinders 2-3.
Used 2 standard manifold gaskets. Had intake vapor blasted, used slip plate on exhaust. Installed all new manifold studs, new lock washers and brass nuts. Much quieter, better idle at all temperatures now.
Replaced intake manifold water return line with new stainless version, was corroded and leaking.
|replace turn signal switch||
End of lever missing, replaced with new Lucas unit from BPN
On further research, changed gearbox to Redline MT90, and it's shifting much smoother now
|horn doesn't work||
Horns were corroded beyond fixing, replaced with new ones. Installed new steering wheel contacts, horn operation is still somewhat sporadic.
|steering wheel cover||
Wheel rim is partially wrapped in electrical tape, original foam is splitting and missing a chunk
Installed leather Wheelskins custom cover, 15"x2.5", with strip of foam bike bar tap on the inside for a little extra cushion and size.
Wheels are a little ratty, clean and repaint in prep for new tires
Used standard silver wheel paint from parts store, pretty close match to original
|steering column bushings||
wheel is sloppy, turns hard
Installed standard bushing kit, adjusted steering column location for proper fit. Much smoother.
Yokohama Avid Ascend 205/70-15 from Discount Tire.
Added headlight relay kit from Moss, headlights seem a bit brighter.
Adjusting valves because of extra tapping noise and found #11 pushrod bent. This is on the same valve where the rocker broke a while back. Assuming a persistently sticky valve.
Replaced pushrod with new, readjusted valves. Will recheck after some miles.
Both seats need a complete rebuild: foam is crumbling, covers need to be replaced
Winter-spring 2018 project, finished both and reinstalled July 2018. Foam and covers from John Skinner, new dunlop straps from TRF, all new stainless fasteners.
|convertible top repair||
Vinyl top needs patching or replacement, some snaps pulled out, missing some sealing pieces, straps gone.
Patched and reinforced holes where snaps had pulled out, replaced missing snaps polished windows, replaced edge velcro strips. Added the wavy washers missing from front bow levers
Panels were warped and didn't fit well. New panels from John Skinner, ordered at the same time as the seat covers. Installed with velcro instead of metal clips.
Was missing, installed the fiberboard version from TRF
Installed halogen lights, got halogen light kit on sale at TRF. Much brighter now. Added a backing plate for passenger side where hole too large for screw.
|revert to lever shocks||
The rear suspension felt like a brick, wanted to see if lever shocks would give a more compliant ride
Got rebuilt shocks from World Wide Auto Parts in Madison, new shock links and limit bumpers. The ride is a lot nicer, way softer over small bumps but not springy. It feels like the rear suspension is finally doing something.
|rubber steering coupler||
Coupler was cracked and obviously old, had red paint from respray years ago
Had to replace bolts with newer allen style because new coupler had all recessed bolt holes - old one had 2 recessed and 2 standard hex bolts.
|replace glove box||
The original one was warped and falling apart, used plastic replacement from TRF
|convertible top cover||
Was missing, bought on sale from TRF
The wiring seems to be intact for this, just the fixture was missing. Found a LED light strip and switch, designed and 3D printed a mount to fit on the gearbox tunnel. Trunk light replaced with the same LED strip.
|trunk lining panels||
All trunk trim was missing, need to buy or make new panels and install new carpet. Get and install new trunk light (make sure wiring works).
Made new spare tire cover from hardboard and wood, and a floor carpet piece from Ax-Man upholstery fabric. New original style panels from BPNW, trimmed slightly to fit and reinforced with some aluminum angle stock.
|front spindle spacers||
The brake pads get pushed back with sharp turns, making the brake pedal go to the floor until it's pumped once. This spacer kit should stiffen the front spindles to avoid that.
On the passenger side the outer bearing shell was loose. Replaced with a different hub, replaced all front bearings and seals, and did a general front suspension lube.
|Ventilation control wire||
Original wire was broken, so vent control knob didn't do anything. Had to replace wire and trunnion clamp, but was able to just clean/lube the control knob. Bike derailleur cable is a good fit to replace the original solid wire, and stiff enough to function the same.
|driver seat track||
Driver seat was wobbly in the track, worn rollers and rust-pitted rails. Replaced with a new track from TRF, gained a bit more rearward adjustment.
|Replace oil gauge line||
Replace oil gauge line with new stainless steel version from TSI. The current plastic one isn't leaking or cracked, but seems like good insurance while I have the dash out.
|Refinish wood dash||
Wood dash was covered in black vinyl at last rebuild, vinyl piece missing from glove box, coming loose in spots. General wear and tear around the dash and gauges. I'd like to return to a wood finish, not necessarily original, but not overly fancy either.
Re-veneered original dash with bookmatched walnut, finished with marine varnish. Cleaned up gauges and touched up paint, replaced gauge lights with LED bulbs, replaced the oil pressure line with stainless steel, replaced missing warning light fittings. Added thicker o-rings behind the gauges so they sit at a better level with the dash - the small gauges were too low with the standard ring.
|Replaced hazard switch||
The original hazard switch was in place and connected but broken internally and seems to be missing pieces.
The correct replacement switch is around $180, and the alternate version is the wider switch from a '73 model. I didn't want to make the dash hole larger or spend that much money, so I found a DPDT toggle switch with the right rating (10+ amps) at Ax-Man for $2.95. I made a new mounting plate for it and mounted it in the same hole. Hazard lights work again.